So the new PC arrives, and the setup goes fine, until the point where I turn the computer on. The problem is that it does not turn on at all, nada. The light at the power supply is on, so I know I've got juice going to it. Right now I'm online chatting with an HP rep, and other than for "Cindy" having major English grammar and vocabulary issues, her seeming unfamiliarity with computers, and her inability to understand the nature of my problem, things are going smoothly. This is not a good week for me.
Now I'm taking apart the computer and taking the RAM modules out. That should be productive. :rolleyes:
What games do you want to play?
Erm.....when I got this PC, I was told that the first time you run Vista it takes a few minutes of nervous anticipation for it to start up.
Does that nervous anticipation include lack of any power button lights, fan sounds, or any other sign that the computer is alive?
BTW, how do you untie those plastic bands that go around the wires and bunch them up? Do you just cut them, or is there a safer way?
Looks like CMOS battery problem was the cause. Thankfully the tech with an actual Indian name proved to be much more useful.
And maybe it wasn't. For fuck's sake.
So much for me buying a complete brand name to avoid the headaches.
Look at the positive side.
I'm this close to just sending this POS back and going to do-it-yourself route.
Wasted the whole fucking day just for the pleasure of speaking to HP reps.
Finally they're asking me to send it back for repair. I think I will send it back for good instead.
/waits for BB to talk about Macs.
That might just push me over the edge.
You sure you have enough of a power supply for it?
HP sends those shitty underpowered 300w power supply units with their prefab, and if you've been adding memory, vidcards, etc., that will usually do it.
And while the tech was escalating the issue to the case manager, the online chat session somehow ended. I hope very, very much that once case manager gets in touch with me, he'll ask me why I want to return this stinking pile.
Quote from: CountDeMoney on July 04, 2009, 07:58:13 PM
You sure you have enough of a power supply for it?
HP sends those shitty underpowered 300w power supply units with their prefab, and if you've been adding memory, vidcards, etc., that will usually do it.
Yeah, I'm sure. The issue is that the power button for whatever reason doesn't work. I managed to start the computer twice by taking out and putting back the CMOS battery. When you do that, computer starts up as soon as you connect the power cord, without the need to press the power button. However, once I shut it off, I'm fucked. It took five hours of pleasant chat with HP techs to get to that realization.
I'm actually starting to believe that God does exist, and that he hates me very, very much.
I just swapped out my old DVD-ROM/CD Lightscribe out for a 22x DVD/RW+R DL MuliRecorder on my HP, a SATA no less. No Indians required.
Don't blame HP, blame the delivery guy for dropping it in the truck.
I don't think this problem can be traced to my PC being dropped. It sounds like some kind of defect that HP could've spotted had they bothered to turn the fucking computer on just once. And, anyway, I can blame HP for Cindy, who manage to waste a lot of my time and effort without actually having a single clue.
Mobo ok?
Most of it is OK, I would think, the computer did boot up twice and was working fine while it was on.
Anyway, I'm off to build my own system. I've already got the power supply and the GTX 285, expecting to put them into the new PC. I might as well build the rest of the computer around them.
I'm also getting a full tower case, so hopefully I won't be feeling like I'm performing brain surgery next time I'm doing something inside.
Quote from: DGuller on July 04, 2009, 09:18:32 PM
I'm also getting a full tower case, so hopefully I won't be feeling like I'm performing brain surgery next time I'm doing something inside.
A wise policy.
Thios thread couldn't be better. You started by buying a brand name POS & then came to your senses.
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 04, 2009, 09:59:00 PM
Thios thread couldn't be better. You started by buying a brand name POS & then came to your senses.
You know, nothing was stopping you from making me come to my senses before I got that POS. :mad:
Quote from: DGuller on July 04, 2009, 11:06:33 PM
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 04, 2009, 09:59:00 PM
Thios thread couldn't be better. You started by buying a brand name POS & then came to your senses.
You know, nothing was stopping you from making me come to my senses before I got that POS. :mad:
:lol:
Ok, so once the refund situation becomes clear, I'm placing a bulk order on newegg.com. What parts do I need? I thought of:
1) case
2) CPU
3) motherboard
4) hard drive
5) memory
6) CPU fan
7) power supply
8) video card
9) Windows
10) monitor
11) speakers
12) sound card
13) optical disk drive
14) keyboard and mouse
Is there anything I'm missing?
Save yourself some money and pirate Windows.
Get a microphone/headset.
Go for blu-ray burner for the the optical drive; should be backwards-compatible.
#12 should be on #3 and unless you are an audio freak with a 10 000$ system it'll do the job fine.
Quote from: Phillip V on July 05, 2009, 11:43:52 AM
Save yourself some money and pirate Windows.
Don't even need to, just get Windows 7 RC & you're set for a year.
Get a 7.1 speaker system if you have the space; will change your gaming/viewing experience.
One set cost me under $150, but I bought it used.
Oh, BTW, do I need a LAN card, or are they integrated into motherboard these days?
Quote from: DGuller on July 05, 2009, 11:58:39 AM
Oh, BTW, do I need a LAN card, or are they integrated into motherboard these days?
Integrated. Be sure to check the motherboard specs for it.
Quote from: Phillip V on July 05, 2009, 11:43:52 AM
Go for blu-ray burner for the the optical drive; should be backwards-compatible.
I think for now I'll just buy a DVD burner, they're dirt cheap. I can always add on blue-ray burner when burning blu-ray discs becomes practical.
Is it worth it spending $200 on aluminum full tower case rather than $100 on the steel one?
Does it match your carpet better?
I'm not expert on metals...does aluminium get rid of heat better or something?
Ventilation and aesthetics are all that really matters with cases.
Quote from: DGuller on July 05, 2009, 04:53:23 PM
Is it worth it spending $200 on aluminum full tower case rather than $100 on the steel one?
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2919 (http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2919)
Get that one. It's god's gift to geeks.
Quote from: DGuller on July 05, 2009, 04:53:23 PM
Is it worth it spending $200 on aluminum full tower case rather than $100 on the steel one?
while a $200 tower probably will be better than a $100 one, you should buy steel (unless you think you need to move it around on a regular basis). Heavier metal, less likely to warp, better sound absorption.
Weight is my concern with steel. In the review section, people were saying that with steel full tower case, their entire computer weighed 50-60 pounds. That sounds a bit unmanageable even if you're not going to constantly tinker with it, since computer towers tend to reside in tight places, and require careful handling at all times.
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 05, 2009, 04:59:08 PM
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2919 (http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2919)
Get that one. It's god's gift to geeks.
I'd go full tower if space isn't an issue. The full tower systems have hookups for two power supplies, and that is handy if you want to upgrade. Plus, the full tower is quieter and cooler by default, and have more room for future growth.
Quote from: DGuller on July 05, 2009, 05:24:13 PM
Weight is my concern with steel. In the review section, people were saying that with steel case, their entire computer weighed 50-60 pounds. That sounds a bit unmanageable even if you're not going to constantly tinker with it, since computer towers tend to reside in tight places, and require careful handling at all times.
I've got a steel-frame tower (Coolermaster Stacker full tower) loaded up, and it weighs maybe 25 pounds. Great system, and with my GTX260 card, dead quiet (my ATI card sounded like an F-14 on 110% FMP).
Maybe I'm just looking at a really crappy steel case then.
Quote from: DGuller on July 05, 2009, 05:24:13 PM
Weight is my concern with steel. In the review section, people were saying that with steel full tower case, their entire computer weighed 50-60 pounds. That sounds a bit unmanageable even if you're not going to constantly tinker with it, since computer towers tend to reside in tight places, and require careful handling at all times.
I dunno - my full tower-ish Mac Pro probably weighs 30 lb or so. It is heavy, no doubt about it, but not unmanageably so. 50-60 lb doesn't sound very realistic.
The problem with a crappy case is Airflow.
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 05, 2009, 05:37:07 PM
The problem with a crappy case is Airflow.
Not just airflow. A good design will take the following factors into account:
-airflow
-weight
-noise dampening
-cable management
-ease of access
-looks
You can get good airflow with a pair of tin snips and a $30 case...
Interestingly enough, the dimensions for GF's mid-tower case are close to the dimensions of the full tower case I was considering. The only significant difference is that GF's case is two inches shorter in height. I think I'm going to go with that.
Best choice you can make.
I recently bought an HP printer that refused to get past the setup stage. Had to be replaced.
Never have any problems with Dell though.
Do order it assembled if possible, 'though.
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 05, 2009, 05:37:07 PM
The problem with a crappy case is Airflow.
That's why I never bother to put the sides on.
That weight for the full tower sounds fishy. The company probably saves money by using the same heavier frames for the steel towers as for the aluminum ones.
Aluminum cases also heat up so fast that you really need to carefully design your system around the airflow, or you'll be getting random shut-offs/restarts like crazy.
And DP, that's only a good move if your computer room is airtight and dust-free. A lot of flavors of room dust corrode contacts; also, your chips can overheat more easily since the case is no longer forcing cold air over them.
Ok, so I got the new computer parts already. I'm up to the step of putting the CPU into the socket. I put it down and the notches align, but I can't seem to close the socket and pull down the lever easily. Should I force the lever down, or am I doing something wrong?
Force.
Quote from: DGuller on July 08, 2009, 07:09:12 PM
Ok, so I got the new computer parts already. I'm up to the step of putting the CPU into the socket. I put it down and the notches align, but I can't seem to close the socket and pull down the lever easily. Should I force the lever down, or am I doing something wrong?
Soak the motherboard in hot water to make the pinholes expand.
Quote from: MadImmortalMan on July 08, 2009, 08:03:23 PM
Soak the motherboard in hot water to make the pinholes expand.
Also, put the CPU in a bucket of water, then put that in the freezer. The CPU will be frozen iinto a block of ice and the pins will shrink in size. Chip away the ice and Bob's yer uncle!
Note: do
not try to shrink the pins by showing them a picture of Janet Reno. They
will shrink, but also will droop (and that's bad).
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 08, 2009, 07:21:26 PM
Force.
This, within reason. CPUs are known to be stubborn pains in the neck.
As I'm connecting the LED pins to the motherboard, I have suddenly realized the new extent to total suck which is the HP support. I'm telling them that my freaking power button just doesn't work, and they didn't even ask me to check the power LED cable connection. They did think it was sensible to ask me to first remove the RAM chips, then replace the power supply, and then to reseat the CMOS battery. I just hope they'll be good at clearing my refund.
Quote from: DGuller on July 08, 2009, 08:33:59 PM
As I'm connecting the LED pins to the motherboard, I have suddenly realized the new extent to total suck which is the HP support. I'm telling them that my freaking power button just doesn't work, and they didn't even ask me to check the power LED cable connection. They did think it was sensible to ask me to first remove the RAM chips, then replace the power supply, and then to reseat the CMOS battery. I just hope they'll be good at clearing my refund.
To be fair, most mainstream computer manufacturers' telephone/chat tech support agents suck.
Speaking of LED wires, I'm having trouble figuring out which way they're supposed to go. The wires going from the case have an arrow on one side of the two-pin connector, and a "G" on the other side. Which one goes to the + pin, and which one goes to the - pin on the mobo?
Quote from: DGuller on July 08, 2009, 08:50:27 PM
Speaking of LED wires, I'm having trouble figuring out which way they're supposed to go. The wires going from the case have an arrow on one side of the two-pin connector, and a "G" on the other side. Which one goes to the + pin, and which one goes to the - pin on the mobo?
The cable's not notched or some other kind of physical keying?
Quote from: DontSayBanana on July 08, 2009, 08:58:21 PM
Quote from: DGuller on July 08, 2009, 08:50:27 PM
Speaking of LED wires, I'm having trouble figuring out which way they're supposed to go. The wires going from the case have an arrow on one side of the two-pin connector, and a "G" on the other side. Which one goes to the + pin, and which one goes to the - pin on the mobo?
The cable's not notched or some other kind of physical keying?
No, they're one of the few ones that can go in both ways. Notching is always the first thing I look for when having these kinds of questions.
I admire your courage in assembling a computer. I can never imagine myself doing it.
Quote from: DGuller on July 08, 2009, 08:59:36 PM
No, they're one of the few ones that can go in both ways. Notching is always the first thing I look for when having these kinds of questions.
I'm double-checking this, but I
believe the arrow should line up with the plus pin. I'll edit if/as soon as I'm sure on this one.
EDIT: I was thinking of unkeyed ribbon cables. Everything I'm checking is reminding me that there's no hard and fast rule for front panel wiring; if I was sure what model mobo and case you were using, I could double-check the documentation for you, but chances are, the info you need will be buried in one of those sets of instructions.
My Google search tells me that the arrow probably does point to the +, and that getting it wrong wouldn't be fatal. I guess for now I'll just go with that assumption, and switch cables around if something doesn't work.
Quote from: DGuller on July 08, 2009, 09:15:06 PM
My Google search tells me that the arrow probably does point to the +, and that getting it wrong wouldn't be fatal. I guess for now I'll just go with that assumption, and switch cables around if something doesn't work.
You should be OK. It's not like the USB cable, where you could be grounding 5 volts in the wrong direction.
It doesn't really matter anyway.
You got the HAF right? Those LEDs are way too strong imo, didn't plug them in.
Argh, I'm going to kill the motherfucker who invented molex connectors. It shouldn't take a genius to know that fucking pins and fucking holes inside the connectors shouldn't be floating around, requiring you to synch up four sets of them at the same time while trying to connect them.
Quote from: Monoriu on July 08, 2009, 08:59:47 PM
I admire your courage in assembling a computer. I can never imagine myself doing it.
Eh, I'm trying to piece me a working Xbox 360 from a couple borke units my co-workers had.
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 08, 2009, 09:44:00 PM
Quote from: Monoriu on July 08, 2009, 08:59:47 PM
I admire your courage in assembling a computer. I can never imagine myself doing it.
Eh, I'm trying to piece me a working Xbox 360 from a couple borke units my co-workers had.
:worship:
Quote from: DGuller on July 08, 2009, 09:41:53 PM
Argh, I'm going to kill the motherfucker who invented molex connectors. It shouldn't take a genius to know that fucking pins and fucking holes inside the connectors shouldn't be floating around, requiring you to synch up four sets of them at the same time while trying to connect them.
Yeah, molex is bad; exposed berg connectors are usually
my gripe- somehow, I always end up reseating a berg connection right after softening up all my fingertip calluses. IDE ribbon cables are still the winner, though- they almost never seat properly, so you get one in and end up going back and forth reseating the one that popped loose while you were securing the last one. :(
I just unpacked my GTX 285 card. Holy crap, that thing is a frigging Canyonero of graphics cards.
Quote from: DGuller on July 08, 2009, 10:16:41 PM
I just unpacked my GTX 285 card. Holy crap, that thing is a frigging Canyonero of graphics cards.
:D
So, I'm finally trying to power up, and I've getting F2/F3/F6/68/69 POST codes on my EVGA mobo. Ugh.
Maybe this is more suited for you:
(https://languish.org/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F51vTU2sdReL._SS400_.jpg&hash=8e5c96bf802c7ae19903b4966dad0cf1bb005553)
Took out two of the three DIMMs, and now I can boot into setup. Either one of the DIMMs is bad, or I didn't seat it properly. I hope it's the latter, but I don't see how you can seat the DIMM improperly these days.
Yep, one of the RAM sticks is dead. I isolated the one that causes the system to not boot up. I guess next time I won't buy G.Skill RAM.
The annoying part is that to replace the defective RAM, I would have to send all three DIMMs back to Newegg, wait until they get it, then wait for them to send it back, before I could use my new computer. What happened to making stuff that's not DOA?
I decided to order OCZ RAM instead, and to return for refund the G.Skill POS once OCZ RAM gets here. That way I can continue setting up the PC without interruptions, and will not have to get another G.Skill POS that may be defective again. I'll eat the $15 restocking fee, I'll make it up by the $15 rebate I'll get on OCZ RAM.
Quote from: DGuller on July 09, 2009, 12:08:04 AM
The annoying part is that to replace the defective RAM, I would have to send all three DIMMs back to Newegg, wait until they get it, then wait for them to send it back, before I could use my new computer. What happened to making stuff that's not DOA?
Buy Japanese.
Is this a chipset that requires ram to be in pairs?
Quote from: MadImmortalMan on July 09, 2009, 11:02:20 AM
Is this a chipset that requires ram to be in pairs?
I hope not. It's triple channel memory, so it's 3 sticks with 2 GB each. My PC starts up with only one or two of them, so I hope I can get by with 4 GB until new RAM arrives.
Ok, next question. How to you boot up the system for the first time? I assumed that the Windows installation disk is bootable, and that my PC would boot from it, and then I would be able to format my hard drive. Am I doing something wrong?
Never mind, changing boot drive priority in BIOS seems to have done it.
DG, every time I buy a new computer I go through a phase of maybe building it myself.
This thread is a great example of why I shouldn't do that.
Glad to be of help. In some way I'm glad to reacquaint myself with computer skills, though. There is so much I learned in the last week, and it's not like my initial "not-building-it-myself" route worked out well.
Quote from: Barrister on July 09, 2009, 03:51:46 PM
DG, every time I buy a new computer I go through a phase of maybe building it myself.
This thread is a great example of why I shouldn't do that.
:D
I open a computer case, and it explodes in my face.
Best Thread ever.
Quote from: DGuller on July 09, 2009, 04:13:04 PM
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 09, 2009, 04:11:14 PM
Best Thread ever.
Why? :unsure:
I like it. One of you has finnally decided to learn something about the tools they use all the time.
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 09, 2009, 04:21:37 PM
Quote from: DGuller on July 09, 2009, 04:13:04 PM
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 09, 2009, 04:11:14 PM
Best Thread ever.
Why? :unsure:
I like it. One of you has finnally decided to learn something about the tools they use all the time.
That, plus it is nice to see someone else go through this for a change! :lol:
My attempt to get my online store to symnchronize its sales to my quickbooks program would be an even longer, more amusing (to the rest of you), and frustrating (for me) saga than even this one.
If anyone here ever thinks about opening an online store and consideres Homestead hosting, think again. Here is a nice gem: when you are using their online trouble ticket process (as I am), every time you or the help desk person posts a message, the system automatically logs the user off! :frusty:
Up and running, finally. Still going through driver installations and Windows updates, but I'm almost up to the point of having something functional. Hopefully there will be no further drama with new RAM, so I could be 100% done by then. Thank you all for your help and emotional support.
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 09, 2009, 04:21:37 PM
Quote from: DGuller on July 09, 2009, 04:13:04 PM
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 09, 2009, 04:11:14 PM
Best Thread ever.
Why? :unsure:
I like it. One of you has finnally decided to learn something about the tools they use all the time.
By this logic, we have to open our TVs, telephones, stoves, washing machines, keyboards, etc etc :lol:
I once bought a computer from a small one-man computer shop that assembles computers to clients' specifications. I bought a 486-66 CPU.
Months later, I opened the case, and saw the words 486-33 on the CPU. He just overclocked it.
I swore not to trust these guys again :mad:
Quote from: Monoriu on July 09, 2009, 08:36:00 PM
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 09, 2009, 04:21:37 PM
Quote from: DGuller on July 09, 2009, 04:13:04 PM
Quote from: Grey Fox on July 09, 2009, 04:11:14 PM
Best Thread ever.
Why? :unsure:
I like it. One of you has finnally decided to learn something about the tools they use all the time.
By this logic, we have to open our TVs, telephones, stoves, washing machines, keyboards, etc etc :lol:
It's what I do, but I'm a geek.
Quote from: Monoriu on July 09, 2009, 08:38:22 PM
I once bought a computer from a small one-man computer shop that assembles computers to clients' specifications. I bought a 486-66 CPU.
Months later, I opened the case, and saw the words 486-33 on the CPU. He just overclocked it.
I swore not to trust these guys again :mad:
A 486-66
is just an overclocked 33. Pentium computers all operated on that premise until the Pentium II series- faster bus and clock speeds were just a matter of motherboard and multiplier settings. The only 486 that actually operated at a faster physical bus speed was the 486DX (of which I have one sitting right behind me- I've been trying to dig up a copy of Windows 3.1 to put on it for shits and giggles).
Quote from: DontSayBanana on July 09, 2009, 09:21:05 PM
Quote from: Monoriu on July 09, 2009, 08:38:22 PM
I once bought a computer from a small one-man computer shop that assembles computers to clients' specifications. I bought a 486-66 CPU.
Months later, I opened the case, and saw the words 486-33 on the CPU. He just overclocked it.
I swore not to trust these guys again :mad:
A 486-66 is just an overclocked 33. Pentium computers all operated on that premise until the Pentium II series- faster bus and clock speeds were just a matter of motherboard and multiplier settings. The only 486 that actually operated at a faster physical bus speed was the 486DX (of which I have one sitting right behind me- I've been trying to dig up a copy of Windows 3.1 to put on it for shits and giggles).
Then he should have just sold it as a 486-33. Overclocking is not allowed in my books.
I wouldn't trust a Hong Kong guy to build my computer. Even in the good old USA, you could easily get cheated back when 486 was the best CPU. I've heard plenty of stories from my family and friends. Just like with cars, the kind of people who have to hire someone to work on their computer are also the kinds of people who would most likely remain clueless if they got cheated.
Quote from: Monoriu on July 09, 2009, 10:47:18 PM
Quote from: DontSayBanana on July 09, 2009, 09:21:05 PM
Quote from: Monoriu on July 09, 2009, 08:38:22 PM
I once bought a computer from a small one-man computer shop that assembles computers to clients' specifications. I bought a 486-66 CPU.
Months later, I opened the case, and saw the words 486-33 on the CPU. He just overclocked it.
I swore not to trust these guys again :mad:
A 486-66 is just an overclocked 33. Pentium computers all operated on that premise until the Pentium II series- faster bus and clock speeds were just a matter of motherboard and multiplier settings. The only 486 that actually operated at a faster physical bus speed was the 486DX (of which I have one sitting right behind me- I've been trying to dig up a copy of Windows 3.1 to put on it for shits and giggles).
Then he should have just sold it as a 486-33. Overclocking is not allowed in my books.
At that point in time, it wasn't overclocking; that was the way the
processor makers increased speed. The options weren't available to end users until much later. The "486" was just a multiplier set against the bus speed.
Trial and error. :thumbsup:
Good job D, haven't done this in years myself.
This thread should be stickied :yes:
Refund from HP cleared. :yeah: Just about the only thing they did with any sort of competence.