Split from pedrito's Compostella thread.
It would appear my midlife crisis may take the shape of a walk to the land of Dante.
Quote from: Admiral Yi on July 26, 2019, 02:33:54 AM
And what's up with the meta-theme of the trip?
Are you doing a reverse "Spanish Road?" :nerd: :nerd:
I used to live in Venice for a short while, it's a special place for me. And I get to string together a lot of regions I'm unfamiliar with and always wanted to visit. Huertgen forest, the Ardennes, the Moselle valley, the Vosges and Alsace mountains, the Black Forest and of course some Alpine passes.
The dream (tm) is to go on to Rome, and then follow the Via Appia to Brindisi, cross over to Albania and follow the Via Egnatia to Constantinople.
Incidentally mirroring my literary hero Patrick Leigh Fermor's 1930s walk from the Hook of Holland to Constantinople, albeit by a completely different route.
But five years to reach Venice is enough of a challenge for now.
Wicked cool.
Quote from: Maladict on July 26, 2019, 03:26:39 AM
and follow the Via Egnatia to Constantinople.
Interesting, they have whole guide books on this.
https://www.viaegnatiafoundation.eu/index.php/guide-book/ve-on-foot
Quote from: Maladict on July 26, 2019, 03:26:39 AM
Quote from: Admiral Yi on July 26, 2019, 02:33:54 AM
And what's up with the meta-theme of the trip?
Are you doing a reverse "Spanish Road?" :nerd: :nerd:
I used to live in Venice for a short while, it's a special place for me. And I get to string together a lot of regions I'm unfamiliar with and always wanted to visit. Huertgen forest, the Ardennes, the Moselle valley, the Vosges and Alsace mountains, the Black Forest and of course some Alpine passes.
The dream (tm) is to go on to Rome, and then follow the Via Appia to Brindisi, cross over to Albania and follow the Via Egnatia to Constantinople.
Incidentally mirroring my literary hero Patrick Leigh Fermor's 1930s walk from the Hook of Holland to Constantinople, albeit by a completely different route.
But five years to reach Venice is enough of a challenge for now.
:cool:
Beautiful idea, Mal.
hey Mal,
if you need a fellow in wanderlust, just let me know and I'll be more than happy to share some roads with you.
About italian hiking trails, I can suggest the guides by Terre di Mezzo, that mainly focuses on the old pilgrim ways - via Francigena, Spanish caminos, etc. -, whose guides are rather well done, full of useful info, maps and addresses: https://www.terre.it/categoria-prodotto/collane/percorsi/ (https://www.terre.it/categoria-prodotto/collane/percorsi/)
If you want to cross the Alps and like some mountain hiking, the Alta Via n. 1 is by far the most scenic high way of the entire range. It crosses the Dolomites from val Pusteria (Toblach) to Belluno, is very well served with different refuges and huts, is NOT an alpine trail (no need of via ferrata or climbing equipment) and you'll walk along some really wonderful mountains.
L.
Quote from: Pedrito on July 26, 2019, 10:39:12 AM
hey Mal,
if you need a fellow in wanderlust, just let me know and I'll be more than happy to share some roads with you.
About italian hiking trails, I can suggest the guides by Terre di Mezzo, that mainly focuses on the old pilgrim ways - via Francigena, Spanish caminos, etc. -, whose guides are rather well done, full of useful info, maps and addresses: https://www.terre.it/categoria-prodotto/collane/percorsi/ (https://www.terre.it/categoria-prodotto/collane/percorsi/)
If you want to cross the Alps and like some mountain hiking, the Alta Via n. 1 is by far the most scenic high way of the entire range. It crosses the Dolomites from val Pusteria (Toblach) to Belluno, is very well served with different refuges and huts, is NOT an alpine trail (no need of via ferrata or climbing equipment) and you'll walk along some really wonderful mountains.
L.
Well, as it turns out Belluno is the end point of Year 4 ( provisional), so that is definitely going to be looked into :cool:
Padova also made the cut in Year 5. The very last day will be spent walking down the Brenta to Fusina where I'll take a boat into Venice, like Goethe did. So I guess I'll see you in 2024 :)
Quote from: garbon on July 26, 2019, 03:58:14 AM
Interesting, they have whole guide books on this.
https://www.viaegnatiafoundation.eu/index.php/guide-book/ve-on-foot
I know. I thought I had an original idea for once :(
You guys are giving me so many ideas for later trips.... I may spend my retirement years walking around the world. :wub:
First 40km of the year last Sunday, through woods, heath, grasslands, the star fortress of Naarden and Muiden castle.
(https://i.imgur.com/GGk6Nke.jpg)
Not as impressive from the ground, but still pretty cool.
(https://i.imgur.com/cdeIWU6.jpg)
Beautiful.
I'm thinking that I need to include at least some serious walking on my upcoming trip. Mallorca was always going to be mostly walking as there really isn't a lot else to do there in the winter. Barcelona will include hiking up to Montejuic (sp?). Now I have to come up with something similar in the other cities. :hmm:
Walk the Appian Way in Rome, from the Quintilian villa all the way into the city centre. It's only about 10k, but a ton of stuff to see and mostly free of cars. Or double the distance and start in Castel Gandolfo.
Quote from: Maladict on July 30, 2019, 01:40:42 PM
Walk the Appian Way in Rome, from the Quintilian villa all the way into the city centre. It's only about 10k, but a ton of stuff to see and mostly free of cars. Or double the distance and start in Castel Gandolfo.
:w00t:
*adds to planning document
Quote from: merithyn on July 30, 2019, 01:26:35 PM
Beautiful.
I'm thinking that I need to include at least some serious walking on my upcoming trip. Mallorca was always going to be mostly walking as there really isn't a lot else to do there in the winter. Barcelona will include hiking up to Montejuic (sp?). Now I have to come up with something similar in the other cities. :hmm:
Montjuic is not really a hike, as it's within Barcelona itself, more like a long walking day in the city.
Concur about the Via Appia, it's basically a huge open air archeological museum. If the weather is nice and you want to walk or bike, it's the place to go in Rome.
Quote from: The Larch on July 30, 2019, 02:59:02 PM
Concur about the Via Appia, it's basically a huge open air archeological museum. If the weather is nice and you want to walk or bike, it's the place to go in Rome.
There's a nasty stretch between the Quo Vadis church and the city walls with heavy traffic and no sidewalk. Don't let it put you off (but don't get run over), inside the walls the goodness continues.
(https://i.imgur.com/zCuCBeU.jpg)
Quote from: Maladict on July 30, 2019, 01:40:42 PM
Walk the Appian Way in Rome, from the Quintilian villa all the way into the city centre. It's only about 10k, but a ton of stuff to see and mostly free of cars. Or double the distance and start in Castel Gandolfo.
That sounds like an awesome idea.
Quote from: Syt on July 30, 2019, 03:13:00 PM
That sounds like an awesome idea.
Not many people realize, but Ciampino airport is very close to the Via Appia. If you're traveling light (or have someone take your luggage from the airport) it's the perfect entrance into Rome. Walk out of the terminal and within 10 minutes there's nothing but Roman cobbles and pine trees.
You should walk the Appian Way as Appius Claudius intended: in full armor from Rome to Capua. :P
Quote from: Maladict on July 30, 2019, 03:22:44 PM
Quote from: Syt on July 30, 2019, 03:13:00 PM
That sounds like an awesome idea.
Not many people realize, but Ciampino airport is very close to the Via Appia. If you're traveling light (or have someone take your luggage from the airport) it's the perfect entrance into Rome. Walk out of the terminal and within 10 minutes there's nothing but Roman cobbles and pine trees.
Alas, flights from Vienna go to Leonardo Da Vinci airport.
Quote from: Syt on July 30, 2019, 03:41:28 PM
Alas, flights from Vienna go to Leonardo Da Vinci airport.
Yeah, you do have to fly Ryanair or a similarly depressing airline, which puts a bit of a damper on the whole thing.
Quote from: Maladict on July 30, 2019, 03:49:07 PM
Quote from: Syt on July 30, 2019, 03:41:28 PM
Alas, flights from Vienna go to Leonardo Da Vinci airport.
Yeah, you do have to fly Ryanair or a similarly depressing airline, which puts a bit of a damper on the whole thing.
In fact only Ryanair and Wizzair fly there nowadays.
Syt, you can go from Bratislava. :P
Quote from: Maladict on July 30, 2019, 03:49:07 PM
Quote from: Syt on July 30, 2019, 03:41:28 PM
Alas, flights from Vienna go to Leonardo Da Vinci airport.
Yeah, you do have to fly Ryanair or a similarly depressing airline, which puts a bit of a damper on the whole thing.
I'll likely be flying out of there, then, as I'm flying from Rome to London via RyanAir. ^_^
Mal, nice hike last Sunday.
Are you aiming for 30-40 kms daily, as an average hike? Will it give you time to stop and visit interesting places?
L.
Quote from: Pedrito on August 03, 2019, 05:35:59 AM
Mal, nice hike last Sunday.
Are you aiming for 30-40 kms daily, as an average hike? Will it give you time to stop and visit interesting places?
L.
I would prefer 40-45km on legs without significant elevation gains. That said I have very little experience walking in hilly or mountainous areas.
I left 6.30 and ended around 15.00, with a one hour lunch break. That would leave a couple of hours for sightseeing. But some places will need more than that, or even a full rest day.
I'm expecting increasing slowdown due to interesting sights as I move south.
Quote from: Valmy on July 30, 2019, 03:40:35 PM
You should walk the Appian Way as Appius Claudius intended: in full armor from Rome to Capua. :P
I'm too old :P
Walked into Germany today, first of three days of walking (44-48-42 km)
It's weird how borders are still a psychological barrier. Before crossing the landscape had already starting feeling less like home, with hills appearing and the clay soil turning to chalk, then rock. The houses start to look German, many metal shutters, some painted walls, the occasional stone house.
But then, the moment you cross the border, there's a slight feeling of caution, of being in unfamiliar territory far from home. It's very odd.
Tomorrow, Hürtgen Forest awaits :cool:
Bloody hell, 50k in this kind of terrain is pushing it. Not sure if I can manage another day of punishment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4teMvG0RzyU
Quote from: Maladict on September 17, 2019, 01:06:35 PM
Bloody hell, 50k in this kind of terrain is pushing it. Not sure if I can manage another day of punishment.
How'd it go today?
Quote from: merithyn on September 18, 2019, 10:53:29 AM
Quote from: Maladict on September 17, 2019, 01:06:35 PM
Bloody hell, 50k in this kind of terrain is pushing it. Not sure if I can manage another day of punishment.
How'd it go today?
I took a paracetamol and powered through the whole thing without a break :)
Waiting for a train to take me home, rail traffic around Cologne is hellish, as usual.
Quote from: Maladict on September 18, 2019, 11:00:27 AM
Quote from: merithyn on September 18, 2019, 10:53:29 AM
Quote from: Maladict on September 17, 2019, 01:06:35 PM
Bloody hell, 50k in this kind of terrain is pushing it. Not sure if I can manage another day of punishment.
How'd it go today?
I took a paracetamol and powered through the whole thing without a break :)
Waiting for a train to take me home, rail traffic around Cologne is hellish, as usual.
Good for you! :yeah:
This shitty weather is good for one thing, planning the next trip.
This year's itinerary will lead from Aachen to Metz, with a third imperial city (Trier) roughly halfway.
Eight days of about 40km each, as a can't take more than a week off work I sacrificed the recovery day in Trier. :(
(https://i.imgur.com/6fKIXBQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5zvFm7t.jpg)
Quote from: Maladict on March 06, 2020, 07:27:13 AM
This shitty weather is good for one thing, planning the next trip.
This year's itinerary will lead from Aachen to Metz, with a third imperial city (Trier) roughly halfway.
Eight days of about 40km each, as a can't take more than a week off work I sacrificed the recovery day in Trier. :(
:cool:
Mal that's a pretty epic march, good luck with it.
I like you, have been planning due to the bad weather, but nearly all of my ideas involve some use of trains probably during the peak of the corona virus. <_<
Woulda been kinda cool to schlep through St. Vith and Bastogne.
Quote from: Maladict on March 06, 2020, 07:27:13 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/6fKIXBQ.jpg)
"Screw you, Luxembourg!"
First dry weekend day of the year, tried out my new backpack which I had very high expectations of and it was bad. Just couldn't get the fit right, my right shoulder hurts and hips are chafed.
Still got 35km in so not a complete loss.
Quote from: mongers on March 06, 2020, 07:51:24 PM
Mal that's a pretty epic march, good luck with it.
I like you, have been planning due to the bad weather, but nearly all of my ideas involve some use of trains probably during the peak of the corona virus. <_<
Trains should be fairly ok, no?
Quote from: Admiral Yi on March 06, 2020, 07:53:11 PM
Woulda been kinda cool to schlep through St. Vith and Bastogne.
St. Vith is on the route, Bastogne is on the wrong side of Luxembourg unfortunately.
Quote from: Syt on March 07, 2020, 01:49:27 AM
"Screw you, Luxembourg!"
Heh, yeah it does look like that. I'll actually be weaving in and out of Luxembourg for a couple of days.
The Our valley, Vianden, Echternach and Little Switzerland are on the route.
Quote from: Syt on March 07, 2020, 01:49:27 AM
"Screw you, Luxembourg!"
How prophetic :lol:
Readjusting the tour (again) to bypass Luxembourg altogether. Not in the mood for mandatory testing (not to mention quarantine) when entering Germany.
Where do you stay on your hikes, Mal? Do you camp, or do you grab a hotel/hostel/inn?
Quote from: merithyn on August 07, 2020, 11:04:33 AM
Where do you stay on your hikes, Mal? Do you camp, or do you grab a hotel/hostel/inn?
Hotels, I need a decent bed and a shower. Having them booked in advance hopefully helps me push on, because I have to get there or else the whole trip falls apart.
Quote from: Maladict on August 07, 2020, 05:47:35 PM
Quote from: merithyn on August 07, 2020, 11:04:33 AM
Where do you stay on your hikes, Mal? Do you camp, or do you grab a hotel/hostel/inn?
Hotels, I need a decent bed and a shower. Having them booked in advance hopefully helps me push on, because I have to get there or else the whole trip falls apart.
That's good to know. Helpful. thank you.
In fact, I prefer a hotel with restaurant, so I don't have to put in anymore effort if I don't feel like it. :blush:
Quote from: Maladict on August 08, 2020, 03:46:45 AM
In fact, I prefer a hotel with restaurant, so I don't have to put in anymore effort if I don't feel like it. :blush:
:cool:
A winning way.
Need to carry less gear that way too. I like camping and walking but the weight of camping gear is quite a dampener.
Quote from: Richard Hakluyt on August 08, 2020, 12:52:55 PM
Need to carry less gear that way too. I like camping and walking but the weight of camping gear is quite a dampener.
:yes:
And on a bike it's makes the packing and unpacking seem to take hours. <_<
Quote from: Maladict on August 08, 2020, 03:46:45 AM
In fact, I prefer a hotel with restaurant, so I don't have to put in anymore effort if I don't feel like it. :blush:
That's the historical way, anyways.
Quote from: Oexmelin on August 08, 2020, 03:57:54 PM
Quote from: Maladict on August 08, 2020, 03:46:45 AM
In fact, I prefer a hotel with restaurant, so I don't have to put in anymore effort if I don't feel like it. :blush:
That's the historical way, anyways.
Yes, that's what I meant. ^_^
End of day 1 and I'm a mess. Pouring rain most of the day, walked in swamped boots the whole time. My feet are a blister factory. Also, the terrain was a fair bit rougher than expected, lots of clambering over rocks and such. Did I mention my pack is too heavy?
This is going well :sleep:
Quote from: Maladict on September 05, 2020, 11:17:52 AM
End of day 1 and I'm a mess. Pouring rain most of the day, walked in swamped boots the whole time. My feet are a blister factory. Also, the terrain was a fair bit rougher than expected, lots of clambering over rocks and such. Did I mention my pack is too heavy?
This is going well :sleep:
:cool:
Don't worry in decades to come, you'll look these travails as necessary elements in an epic adventure. :D
Also rather cool of you to be doing this during the current crisis/uncertainty.
Quote from: Maladict on September 05, 2020, 11:17:52 AM
End of day 1 and I'm a mess. Pouring rain most of the day, walked in swamped boots the whole time. My feet are a blister factory. Also, the terrain was a fair bit rougher than expected, lots of clambering over rocks and such. Did I mention my pack is too heavy?
This is going well :sleep:
May Day 2 fare better. :hug:
The beauty of staying at hotels on hiking or cycling trips is that bar extreme circumstances you know your clothes will be dry in the morning.
Also, I'll be vicariously vacationing through you. Looking forward to hearing how day 2 went!
Thanks guys.
Day 2 got me a second away from my worst nightmare. I'm highly allergic to wasp stings so my fear is being stung while in a remote area, especially when alone. So I'm walking in a remote area and drink from my camelbak. I put the nozzle in my mouth not realising there's a wasp on it, probably drinking the moisture. I feel something soft against my tongue, maybe bits of leaves or flower or something, and spit it out. When I see the, somewhat shaken up, wasp on the ground I'm suddenly able to cover a distance at great speed.
I had a bad first day but dying on the second would have been a waste of all that effort.
Man I hate the unexpected bee or wasp in your mouth thing. I got bit by one of them inside my lips and had a fat lip for days, not to mention the shock of suddenly realizing I drank a stinging bug :lol:
I applaud your courage doing this trip with that kind of allergy :ph34r: stay safe.
Yeah well that's why I had planned to go in May. I really hate being out this time of year, can't wait until they all die in a few weeks. On the upside, not a single mosquito so far.
Do you travel with an epi pen?
Quote from: merithyn on September 08, 2020, 10:23:34 PM
Do you travel with an epi pen?
Yes. Had it replaced just in time as it had expired :blush:
Marched* across the Roman Bridge into Trier and declared a minor victory. Limited war aims have been achieved.
Days 3 and 4 were surprisingly decent going but today was bad. Based on the state of my legs tomorrow I'll decide whether to continue or not.
Today's lesson: 40-45km and 900m elevation gain is fun once, not twice.
*limped
Quote from: Maladict on September 09, 2020, 01:05:23 PM
Marched* across the Roman Bridge into Trier and declared a minor victory. Limited war aims have been achieved.
Days 3 and 4 were surprisingly decent going but today was bad. Based on the state of my legs tomorrow I'll decide whether to continue or not.
Today's lesson: 40-45km and 900m elevation gain is fun once, not twice.
*limped
:pinch:
So, it is done. I had very nearly given up three days ago, but I made it to Metz.
Roughly 330 km in 8 days, it's the hardest thing I've ever done.
I'll write up some more later, but first: sleep.
:cheers: Nicely done! :)
Very impressive. 8 days is a long stretch isn't it? Is the lack of rest days because of time restriction or a choice?
Enjoy the Pompidou museum in Metz! :P
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centre_Pompidou-Metz (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centre_Pompidou-Metz)
Quote from: Maladict on September 12, 2020, 07:59:22 AM
So, it is done. I had very nearly given up three days ago, but I made it to Metz.
Roughly 330 km in 8 days, it's the hardest thing I've ever done.
I'll write up some more later, but first: sleep.
:w00t:
That's fantastic! Well done!
Where did you start from?
Quote from: Maladict on September 12, 2020, 07:59:22 AM
So, it is done. I had very nearly given up three days ago, but I made it to Metz.
Roughly 330 km in 8 days, it's the hardest thing I've ever done.
I'll write up some more later, but first: sleep.
:cool:
Mal that's some going there, definite Roman legionnaire territory, did you also build a new camp each night? :)
Thanks guys :)
Other than still falling asleep around 9 pm every day, I've recovered quite well.
I see I've done a lot of post-walk bitching in this thread, but looking back it has mostly been pretty epic. Apart from putting a wasp into my mouth and licking it, that is, I could definitely have done without that :lol:
I'm still unsure what the best way to tackle this kind of distance is. An additional rest day (e.g. in Trier 5/8 days in) would have helped my muscles recover but not my feet, not enough at least. And it may have created a hurdle to get started again, breaking the rhythm. Spreading the distance out over an additional day would equally have helped the muscles but probably not the joints. I'll probably try that nonetheless next year, maybe 35 km a day tops.
Of course, putting in 15-20km a day over two weeks would likely be a walk in the park, but I don't have the time and I do want it to be something of a challenge.
Some highlights then:
- starting off from Charlemagne's tomb in Aachen's magnificent Palatine chapel
- in the rainy and foggy woods south of Aachen, seeing an intact section of the Siegfried Line emerge from the mist. Very eerie.
- the High Fens in Wallonia, a vast moorland at Belgium's highest elevation. Some sections have raised walkways but, it being Belgium, some are broken. Instead of turning back and finding a different route I opted to take my chances on the couple of necessary steps on ground level and promptly sank into the swamp up to my knees. Good times.
- several sunrises over misty valleys
- the Our valley, endless miles of idyllic streams, woods and meadows withouth a human to be seen
- running into a large group of boar at dawn
- Reinhardstein and Falkenstein castles, Vianden and its restored castle
- the sandstone crags and caves around Echternach
- first glimpse of Trier from high above, identifying the Roman monuments and realizing how absolutely massive the city was and how imposing the structures must have been to the locals, crossing the Roman bridge over the Mosel and reading Ausonius' Mosella at night.
- the Celtic-Roman-medieval refuge and stronghold at Kastel-Staadt
- the spectacular Saarschleife at Orscholz
- another well-preserved section of the Siegfried line near Borg, never used as resistance was futile by that point
- Schengen (yes, I am a europhile)
- first sight of the France border sign
- ending the tour at glorious Metz cathedral
Nothing to do but endlessly tweak part 2 of the trek.
I hoped to be able to go in June, but August-September is probably more realistic.
One more year of putting up with shorter days and killer wasps.
There's a whole lot of emptiness on this route, especially the first half. The second half through the Vosges should be more interesting.
I'll be returning to Metz on Sunday, it will be a nice toasty 30 degrees C.
Nine days of walking through Lorraine, across the Vosges, through the vineyards and half-timbered villages of Alsace, and finally across the Rhine to Freiburg.
(https://i.imgur.com/3SMEWwr.png)